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This
page is devoted to creativity in pyrographic art. We welcome any
articles from guest instructors that will teach pyrographers how
to create something different or something special. Please email
us with your ideas.
Our
first creativity project will be what I call, "IMAGINART". I named
this "Imaginart" because it takes your imagination to fill out the
rest of the picture. It basically deals with the art of silhouette.
This is a good example of the creativity I am trying to inspire
in pyrographic artists to consider other forms of art and then,
in some way, apply it to pyrography.
Contemplate
a source of light from one direction; Anything that interrupts that
light before it reaches your eyes we consider a silhouette. Usually,
the light is so strong that any person standing in front of it becomes
a shadow. You cannot see the details of their face. Camera manufacturers
have tried to take this into account and somehow filter out the
back light and light up the face of the interrupter. In this creativity,
we have done something different. We have moved the light source
to the side and reflect it on the object so only that part facing
the light can be visible.
For
example, if in a darkened room you shine a flashlight on the face
of a person, only that lighted portion can be seen. You know there
is the rest of the head in the dark, but it takes your imagination
to fill out the details in your mind. This side light can be controlled.
For instance, you may just light up the edge of the silhouette or
you may increase the light or move the light to illuminate a greater
portion of the face, including other characteristics, such as a
nose, eyebrows, hair or eyes. This controlled light can be increased
by lumens (strength of the light) or just the slight adjustment
of the light in a certain direction can change the degree of light.
This degree of light gives the artist a great range in creating
"Imaginart." All artists know that the positioning of shadows can
create a face without drawing a solid line. In fact, most realistic
sketches have few distinctive lines. Usually, if the art is only
defined by lines, you can consider it a cartoon. With Imaginart
we are expanding on this idea of shadows and a directional light
source.
Our
first project will be an Imagine Art of the famous trumpeter from
the state of Louisiana in the United States, the late, Louis Armstrong,
sometimes known as "Satchmo" This is a actual photo of my finished
ImaginArt piece.
The
materials needed are: (1) a 1/8th inch (3.175 mm.) thickness of
clear, reduced grain wood, such as Italian poplar or Basswood. For
this art, usually a small piece about 1 foot (304.8 mm.) square
will suffice. (2) A scroll saw or a coping saw. The saw can be hand
operated or electrically operated, making it much faster. (3) Purchase
a 20 inch( 508 mm) by 30 inch (762 mm.) (or bigger if you like)
black mat
board at an art store. (4) A 12 inch (304.8 mm.) by 12 inch
(304.8 mm.) of heavy (80 to 100 lb.) white
paper. (5) Paper cutting scissors. (6) A dark pencil. (7) A
sketch
pad. (8) A burning
system with a shading pen (I used a 12-D
handpiece. This is a copper tipped pen that retains heat longer).
(9) A double side adhesive tape. (10) A permanent adhesive, like
Elmer's glue. (11) A replaceable blade carving knife (like
X-Acto). (12) Fine grit sandpaper.
One
advantage of this type of art: even though the finished picture
will by 20 inches (508 mm.) by 30 inches (762 mm.), you will only
need a small piece of wood for the parts.
With
your sketch pad, make a drawing of the finished art piece. You will
notice on the photo of my piece, that each piece of wood is separate
from each other. The forehead, the eyelids, the cheeks, lips, teeth
and chin are all small pieces of wood pasted in the proper position
to give the impression of a side light. When the sketch is to your
satisfaction, cut out each individual piece and transfer it to the
100 lb. white paper. The heavy paper is to give it some rigidity
when transferring it to the wood. If you are confident enough, you
can make your sketch on a large piece of heavy white paper and eliminate
the sketch pad. Lay out the heavy paper cutouts on the black mat
board. Stand a few feet away and see if you are satisfied with the
results. Sometimes, all it takes is a little maneuvering of the
cutout to make it look right.
After you are satisfied with the results of the heavy paper on the
black mat board, you are ready to transfer those cutout to the 1/8
inch (3.175 mm.) clear grain wood. Place the heavy paper cutout
in a convenient position on the 1/8 inch (3.175 mm.) piece of wood.
Arrange and position the cutout so you will save the wood. Outline
each piece on the wood with the dark pencil. Use the coping saw
or scroll saw to cut out the pieces of wood. I believe my Louis
Armstrong took twenty two cutouts.
On
each piece of wood, use an X-Acto type knife to round the
edges of Louis' face and hands. Round only that part of the face
and hands that face the direction of the light. Those parts of the
cutouts that face the shadow, you will leave a sharp 90 degree corner.
Sand each piece so the rounded area is smooth from the knife cuts.
With your burning system shading tool, soften those areas of the
wooden face with appropriate shading. Burn the shading on the trumpet
and buttons.
When
all the pieces are done, place them on the black mat board much
like you did the heavy paper. When you are satisfied with the results,
put a drop of Elmer's glue on each piece. With this glue,
you will have a short time to make any adjustments. Stand about
10 feet (3 meters) away to see if you have to move any of the pieces
slightly.
Things
to remember: If you want to make a smaller or larger picture, you
must adjust the sizes of your pieces accordingly. Your sketch pad
or your 100 lb paper will be the same size as your black mat board.
If you find a picture of a shadow portrait, you can make an ImaginArt
of it. If you want to take a photo of someone, possibly a family
member, take it in a darkened room with a strong side light. Be
creative, add or remove light to make it more interesting.
***Robert E. Boyer***
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